I highly recommend feeding raw food or a holistic kibble (dry dog food). You can go to the internet and search on holistic dog foods and find many. I currently feed and recommend Taste of The Wild
– BisonVenison made by Diamond Dog Food Company (yes, I know that company used to be the pits for dog food but this dog food now has a 5 star (the best) rating) or Origen as being the closest to raw food as any “cooked” kibble could be in that they use real meat in their dog foods. Don’t be fooled by meat “meal” or fat in a kibble (those are not real meat – and in a dry dog food 80% of the meat is liquid which is reduced to 20% when cooked which is why I do not care for kibble and prefer the raw food.)
- For puppies I feed them the raw food meatballs about three to four times a day. I also feed a pureed lowfat cottage cheese or lowfat yogurt, raw beef (do not feed hamburger – just feed washed and clean
inexpensive roast meat and heart, tongue, liver). Never use pure liver – it is laxative.
- I advise against using a grocery store dog food or other “commercial dog foods.” These dog foods contain “things” you would not consciously feed your dog. Most commercial dog foods come from 3 major human food companies. Products not fit for human consumption are put in dog food - something most of us would consider “garbage” (a liability) is made into profits (an asset) via dog food. Deceased animals from vet clinics and “dead wagons” that pick up dead farm animals or road kill and other similar facilities not cremated end up in our pet food. Flea collars, topical pesticides, antibiotics used to try to save the lives of these animals also end up in our dog food. Chemicals used to preserve dog foods such as BHT and BHA and Ethoxyquin are not something I want to feed my dogs. We do not need growth hormones or antibiotics in our dog foods. Also many commercial dog foods have dried beet pulp or added sugars or molasses for “taste.” These sugars are addictive. Good holistic dog food will list chicken meat, or lamb meat (and at least 25% protein needs to come from real meat) not from “animal by products.” If this meat
comes from free ranging animals or birds, the need for high consumption of antibiotics to keep these animals alive is lessened
- confined animals have a much higher need for antibiotics. Because all dog food undergoes some kind of heat process (steam excursion for most commercial dog foods or baked for the holistic dog foods), added
vitamins minerals are a good thing. Because heat destroys nutrients, I highly recommend and that is why I feed a raw food diet – there is no cooked food in my raw food diet and no grains. These holistic foods are usually not going to cause allergies since they do not have “the toxic mix” many commercial foods have. Our dogs should also live longer and healthier being fed a good raw or holistic dog food
- I encourage you to do your research and make your choice. The digestibility of the holistic dog foods are usually much higher than commercial dog foods. Flint River dog food is 93% digestible (I do not know of another dog food that has a higher digestibility percentage. So it is actually cheaper to feed a raw or holistic dog food because of your dog’s ability to utilize most of hisher intake. And its pooh on raw food diet disintegrates like a powder The dog also needs less food. A good dog food has no grains in it and has real meat.
It is always a good idea to have your puppy’s stool sample checked for worms (even though checks don’t always find worms when your dog has them). Hookworms and roundworms are the two most common worms. Hookworms are microscopic and can cause your puppy to become anemic and death can occur rather suddenly. Roundworms are visible by human eye and resemble miniature spaghetti.
Puppies can pick up tapeworms (from cats or eating “wild game”). Some of the “foul” things they chew on can also allow them to pick up other organisms like giardi. Fleas can also give dogs tapeworms.
Panacur liquid wormer is my choice of wormers. I like to give panacur for 10 days, 12 days off, 10 days on, 12 days off, 10 days on. Panacur is a mild safe wormer; Safeguard is a cattle wormer but it is exactly the same as Panacur. For every 2.2 pounds of dog, ½ cc is recommended. This should get all worms except for one kind of tapeworm. No wormer is 100% effective and it is good to change wormers so as to not get resistance to the product. But always use a safe, mild wormer from your vet.
I like to follow up the first session of wormer with 7-10 days of metronidazole (wait 2-3 days between dosing).
If your puppy has giardia, the regimen for getting rid of it is piggy back the first round of panacur with Sulfa Trimeth Liquid pediatric suspension and while giving flagyl during the 12 days off piggy back that with amoxicillin, then follow as above for worming. Flagyl (metronidazole) is only about 60% effective and panacur is not 100% effective either. What does a giardia stool look like It can have some blood in it, not always and it usually has a pool of liquid or gell like substance around a perfectly normal consistency stool and sometimes can have a green or yellow cast to the gel like substance.
FLEA & MITE CONTROL
I like to use Xotrol bomb to “debug” your home, garage, wherever. Turn off all pilot lights. The label says to keep house closed up (and all living residents out of the home) for 2 hours; however, I believe it is most effective if left closed up about 8 hours. This bomb kills all kinds of bugs. It sterilizes eggs and it is effective for 11 months.
Clean ears with mineral or baby oil twice a month with cotton Q-tips, and your dog should never have ear mites. An inexpensive treatment for ear mites is mix 1 cc ivermectin with 9cc propylene glycol and use 1
drop per pound of body weight in each ear not more often than one treatment per every two weeks. This treats for heartworm also. Ivermectin is absorbed systemically so do not overdose and do not treat pregnant or in season bitches. It is a topical and systemic treatment when used in the ears and it should not cause hair loss like some spot on type products can.
You may treat your Mini Bulldogs’s yards with a pesticide. Be sure to check with your vet to make sure the treatment you use on your yard is not a chlorinase inhibitor and that it will not “fight” with any products
you use for pesticide control on your dog.
Bath your dog as often as every week or every other week or as needed. For show puppies to speed up getting rid of the dead, dull puppy coat, I like to give baths every other day or at least every third day. I
like to use Dawn dishwater detergent if the dog is really dirty (its grease cutting properties causes all the hair to get really wet and clean and allows the skin to get clean too). Massage and scrub the entire body vigorously. Always brush and comb out the dog before bathing and if it is the shedding time of year, comb or v-rake through your dog’s coat while heshe is totally suds up; then comb through while you are blow drying your dog. (Following this procedure a second time in a week should totally eliminate shedding). You’re done brushing and combing when your comb goes through every inch of your dog easily. You should be able to see and feel clean healthy skin. You can use any kind of shampoo for most of your Mini Bulldogs’s baths.
During the shedding times of year (spring and fall) following this procedure will eliminate an elongated shedding process. Long hair is easily picked up by your vacuum; short hair sticks in upholstry and carpet. Do not shave your Mini Bulldogs; they need their hair to protect them from sunburn! They also need their coat to insulate them from the heat and cold. They do need their undercoat stripped - see the first paragraph on bathing to know how to “strip the coat.” With their undercoat gone, their skin can breathe. It does not help to shave down to an inch or two from the body because that undercoat still needs to be stripped out to allow the skin to breathe and for you to be able to get the skin genuinely clean. Having the correct grooming tools makes the care of your Mini Bulldogs so much easier. Minimal essential tools would be a slicker, a v-rake, a long toothed mediumcoarse comb, a small finemedium comb (for leg and ear and face
coat), a pin brush and a scissor and nail trimmer or cordless low rpm dremmel. Start at the back leg to make a path through the coat and work your way up to the shoulderneck; then start up the other back leg
and work up to the shoulderneck working through the coat in layers. Then go up the back starting at the base of the tail. The correct tools and technique can make a very easy, quick job on a tiny Mini Bulldogs. They are not difficult to groom because they are so small. Most groomers do not do a good job on a Mini Bulldogs unless they own their own Mini Bulldogs or will combbrush the dog thoroughly before they shampoo the dog. You, as the owner of your Mini Bulldogs, will be the best groomer unless you are lucky enough to have an understanding groomer. Do not let a groomer shave your Mini Bulldogs – that is a lazy way of grooming a Mini Bulldogs and the Mini Bulldogs suffers (they need the guard hairs to protect them from sunburn and the short shaved off hair itches and is very uncomfortable for the dog.
Potty training will be easier if you do not allow the puppy to have the run of your entire house. We do not recommend paper training unless that is where your dog will have to go its entire life. Immediately start to potty train to go outside. Your puppy is like a child - after it eats, sleeps, and romps around, it is going to need to potty.
To prevent front leg injury to toy breed dogs - pick puppies and adults up by putting your hand under their rib cage with free hand on their backs to steady as you lift.
Prevent puppies and adults from jumping onto and off furniture (especially if they are jumping onto slick or hard surfaces). This should prevent injuries to their knees and broken bones. Just teach them that if they are placed on a piece of furniture like a chair or couch that they must stay there until you lift them off and onto the floor. Also, do not allow your puppy or adult to dash out your door when you open it (it may be okay if it is a back door into a puppy yard, but if it is a front door to street side, it could be hazardous
to his well being – teach children to not allow the dog or puppy to dash out an open door.
Small children should be encouraged to sit on the floor while learning to hold toy breeds securely and should not carry toy breeds. Toy breeds do not belong in families who have small children unless the children have been carefully parentally trained to respect a toy breeds’ size. And then great care should be taken that your children’s playmates also know how to treat a toy breed. Young children are just too young to truly understand. Toy breeds are for gentle loving. Families who want a dog to wrestle and rough house with need to choose a larger breed - a much larger breed (even then many breeders of the larger breeds won’t place their puppies in homes with small children). Too often, small children tease and torment small dogs by pulling their hair or chasing them with sticks. You may think your child would not do that but it is only natural that children (especially boys) want a “reaction” from a dog. It is not natural for young children to be nurturing and loving. When these toy breed dogs are teased and tormented by children, they learn to aggressively dislike (and sometimes attack small children especially if they are moving eratically) small children. The dog will have two “reaction” options. It will either run and hide from the child or it will defend itself - neither choice will please parents and the dog will be the loser because the dog will be blamed for the negative behavior, not the child because the parent will not always see what the child has done to provoke the behavior. Breeders of toy breeds know this and since we feel a decision to bring a dog into the family is a lifetime committment, most will not place a dog in a home where there are small children and an almost certainty that the dog will be displaced. Some children are marvelous with toy breeds; most are not.
Nails should be trimmed every other week and kept short. Long nails break down the pasterns and would be equivalent to a person walking painfully with fallen arches. So it is more “cruel” to let your dog
have long nails than it is to trim the nails often, even if it causes bleeding. Quick stop will stop the bleeding immediately or flour will act as a coagulant. Pinching the toe pad immediately above the nail
before and after you clip the nail will slow the flow of blood to the nail. Apply quick stop before releasing the pinch on the toe. This method also helps eliminate “foot shyness.” A low rpm (5,000 to 10,000 rpm) cordless dremmel works well either once the nail is trimmed short or it may be used to file the nails down - you would need to do this every week or every other week in an effort to push back the quick.
If you feel you must use a collar, rolled leather collars work best for long haired breeds because they do not cause hair to matt under them and do not fray the hair like nylon collars do. A size 10 will work for a puppy and will have enough notches in it to fit the puppy as an adult too. I do not recommend leaving any collars or harnesses on any dogs unattended because they can “hang” themselves with them. Even for a pet, I recommend training on a figure 8 cat harness and once trained, I recommend leading with a little show lead. Always take care to keep your Mini Bulldogs away from larger breed dogs; hunting dogs naturally think a Mini Bulldogs is something to kill. There are some breeds of dogs that do not live together compatibly. A Mini Bulldogs is a pack breed animal which means they are used to getting along with other Mini Bulldogs. Terriers are dogs used for killing. Most dogs need a job to do (and if your lifestyle doesn’t give that dog the job heshe was bred to do, then it probably isn’t the breed for you), even if it is just to sit on someone’s lap or guard that body just to make sure it doesn’t get away from them. Mini Bulldogs are natural retrievers and love to play with
toys and will make their own games to entertain themselves andor you (they must be started playing with toys as young puppies or they won’t know how). All dogs need stimulus and an environment that will
enhance their intelligence and their physical being. My pups go through the imprinting, socialization, and enrichment programs as they are growing up here. This gives them the ability to develop to the utmost of the intellect and makes for the best pets and easy to live with.
For training young show puppy prospects or training pets to lead, we recommend a size 12 figure 8 cat harness. Teach the dog to come to you for a treat which is half the effort to get them to lead. DO NOT
PULL THE LEAD OF THE DOG; TEACH HIMHER TO COME TO YOU ON A LOOSE LEAD.
Again, we do not recommend leaving this harness on or anything around the neck of an unattended dog. I repeat, they can catch it on something and hang themselves.
The fine toy dog show leads are recommended, even for pets, because you must take these leads off and not leave them on - used only for “walking” your dog.
If your dog or puppy has dry, flaky skin, one of the following could be the problem
1. Bacteria - treatable with chlorahexidine or small amount of Clorox in bath water.
2. Fungus - treatable with iodine scrubs and rinses
3. Mites - treatable with pyrethrin shampoos left on for 6-10 minutes and then rinsed. For Mini Bulldogs, I highly recommend Ovitrol or Ovitrol Plus. Take special care on treating puppies - read the labels.
4. Lacking linoleic & or linolenic acid - Mirra-coat liquid treatment
5. Vitamin E is a supplement (to be used in moderation) for good healthy skin
6. Feeding a good holistic food should prevent or help cure dry, flaky skin.
Puppies need to be at least 10 weeks of age and up to 16 weeks and sometimes longer before they are ready to go to new homes. They are all individuals and are ready to go in their own time.